Figure Skating Photography, Videography, and Visual Storytelling

[LeadenMyr]

4 hours ago, Maya said:

Another question I have is about the workflow. One aspect of it is about file transfer. My strategy to have the best chance of producing good images is to take a lot of them, and take videos that allow me to extract high-resolution stills. Needless to say, the combined file sizes are huge. During a competition, I easily shoot 10GB or more files in a day. It takes a long time to transfer such volume of files to an external hard drive using my 4+ year old Macbook Pro, and much much longer to upload to my Google Drive using wifi. It's a real pain. For the time being, I just keep buying micro-SD cards. What are your strategies?

What kind of SD cards are you using? 

[Maya]

2 minutes ago, LeadenMyr said:

What kind of SD cards are you using? 

This one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XWZWYVP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[LeadenMyr]

11 minutes ago, Maya said:

This one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XWZWYVP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ah, well, I was gonna suggest a faster SD but it says it's 100-90 mb so there are really not many options there that could be faster. 

Do you download the raw material (not  .RAW I mean untouched) directly to the computer's hard disk or do you use external HD? That could also save some minutes when downloading the material and also if you save the lightroom library and caches and whatnot (also for video)  it seems to me that it works faster (as long as the external HD has good speed too). 

Sorry if my English makes what I'm saying hard to understand 

[Maya]

19 minutes ago, LeadenMyr said:

Ah, well, I was gonna suggest a faster SD but it says it's 100-90 mb so there are really not many options there that could be faster. 

Do you download the raw material (not  .RAW I mean untouched) directly to the computer's hard disk or do you use external HD? That could also save some minutes when downloading the material and also if you save the lightroom library and caches and whatnot (also for video)  it seems to me that it works faster (as long as the external HD has good speed too). 

Sorry if my English makes what I'm saying hard to understand 

 

Oh I can understand (or I think I do ) your English without any problem. Copying the original files to my computer hard drive is slow. Copying them to an external hard drive (mine has USB 3.0 but 4+ years old) is slow, too. Do you know of any other external hard drives that transfer files faster?

 

With the camera, tripod and other things, I don't want to carry my laptop to the arena. Often with skating competitions we get back to our hotel or airbnb late and find myself too sleepy to finish backing up files. I don't want to end up backing up half way, so I stopped doing it until I return home. This practice requires enough space on my microSD cards for the entire competition.

 

Yuzu's Haru yo koi is my favorite program, and it was the very last performance at GP Helsinki. I presume it'll be the case at GPF, too. I absolutely want to have sufficient camera storage space for it. Since GPF has only the very best skaters, I'll likely want to shoot quite a bit of still (highest resolution possible with .raw files as well) or 4K motion pictures. How many 128GB microSD cards would be enough for the entire competition? Three? Four? If I were to run out of space before Haru yo koi, I'll delete files from the camera. At least this option works fast.

[LeadenMyr]

9 hours ago, Maya said:

Thanks to all the responses.  Glad to see the discussion going.

 

For the time being, my budget doesn't allow me to invest in cameras with detachable lenses.  For ACI and GP Helsinki, I used a Panasonic DMC-FZ300, which has a great zooming range (25-600mm) and constant f2.8 aperture, plus it takes 4K videos and photos. The out-of-focus issue happened frequently, though, when I used any mode other than the motion picture with high speed video settings. Needless to say, I have a serious case of kuyashi, considering my seat at GPF won't be nearly as good as those for ACI and GP Helsinki.

You can see some of the slow-mo videos I created using the high speed video mode below.

 

 

I think the camera is more capable than I know how to use currently. For example, I probably didn't use focus tracking the right way. I'll read carefully the advanced manual before GPF. Anyone here using FZ300, too?

Whatttt I loved your videos!!!!

I'll check if I can find some videos related to your camera and follow focus features

 

9 hours ago, Maya said:

 

I suspect the videographer used a tripod with a 360 degree ball head (such as this one, which I used to shoot the videos posted in my previous post) to produce the smooth panning. 

Thank you for answering !!!

I was thinking maybe they used an DJI's Osmo or even a Ronin. I used a Ronin for an architecture video a few weeks ago and it was magic, but I'm still not sure if its magic would be enough for a non skater to get this good a shot.

 

 

Also, I can't find the speed in your HD description but still it's 3.0, maybe a solid state (is that even the name of it? ) HD would be the only choice to speed up things? They're very expensive though...

Actually for workflow I think without changing your equipment and not taking your laptop to the arena, you're doing what's possible to make it fast. Maybe bring someone with you who doesn't like FS to keep your laptop and help you download things ASAP  jk, but maybe you could have two HDs and ask a friend to help you, you connect one to their laptop and the other one to yours and speed your download from the SD to your HD x2, and maybe even if you are awake at the end you can change the SDs and let them download while you guys sleep, it would be 4 SDs in one night and you have 4 fresh cards and everything backed up the next day? 

It really is tough, but seriously I loved your videos and I hope to see more 

[Maya]

30 minutes ago, LeadenMyr said:

Whatttt I loved your videos!!!!

I'll check if I can find some videos related to your camera and follow focus features

 

Thank you for answering !!!

I was thinking maybe they used an DJI's Osmo or even a Ronin. I used a Ronin for an architecture video a few weeks ago and it was magic, but I'm still not sure if its magic would be enough for a non skater to get this good a shot.

 

 

Also, I can't find the speed in your HD description but still it's 3.0, maybe a solid state (is that even the name of it? ) HD would be the only choice to speed up things? They're very expensive though...

Actually for workflow I think without changing your equipment and not taking your laptop to the arena, you're doing what's possible to make it fast. Maybe bring someone with you who doesn't like FS to keep your laptop and help you download things ASAP  jk, but maybe you could have two HDs and ask a friend to help you, you connect one to their laptop and the other one to yours and speed your download from the SD to your HD x2, and maybe even if you are awake at the end you can change the SDs and let them download while you guys sleep, it would be 4 SDs in one night and you have 4 fresh cards and everything backed up the next day? 

It really is tough, but seriously I loved your videos and I hope to see more 

 

Thanks for your replies! We like the videos because Mr. Hanyu did his magic and we are hungry for savoring it  The videos and still images I'll be taking at GPF will be from a different (and more challenging) angle. I'll try my best to get the best out of it.

 

I was actually torn between focusing on his skating (i.e., not messing with my camera,) and recording. For the latter, I couldn't afford taking eyes away from the camera LCD because he moves so fast that with just a split second of inattention he's out of the frame. I wish I had the means to hire a professional to do the recording for my own record and freedom to use the outcome without infringing on others' copyrights. Still, even by just looking at the LCD, I was shaking when I was recording Haru yo koi in Helsinki. I'm profoundly grateful being able to witness his artistry and feel his incredible presence on ice.

 

Thanks also for introducing me to the DJI's Osmo and Ronin, which look several steps up my current equipment level. For the time being, I'm pleased with the tripod and ball head I have.

 

As to workflow, I think for the time being having enough microSD's is probably the most feasible and affordable solution compared to potential alternatives. 

 

 

[LeadenMyr]

18 minutes ago, Maya said:

 

Thanks for your replies! We like the videos because Mr. Hanyu did his magic and we are hungry for savoring it  The videos and still images I'll be taking at GPF will be from a different (and more challenging) angle. I'll try my best to get the best out of it.

 

I was actually torn between focusing on his skating (i.e., not messing with my camera,) and recording. For the latter, I couldn't afford taking eyes away from the camera LCD because he moves so fast that with just a split second of inattention he's out of the frame. I wish I had the means to hire a professional to do the recording for my own record and freedom to use the outcome without infringing on others' copyrights. Still, even by just looking at the LCD, I was shaking when I was recording Haru yo koi in Helsinki. I'm profoundly grateful being able to witness his artistry and feel his incredible presence on ice.

 

Thanks also for introducing me to the DJI's Osmo and Ronin, which look several steps up my current equipment level. For the time being, I'm pleased with the tripod and ball head I have.

 

As to workflow, I think for the time being having enough microSD's is probably the most feasible and affordable solution compared to potential alternatives. 

 

 

Looking forward to your videos 

I hope some day I'll be able to go to one of his competitions. I'd go crazy, though, torn between those two options, to record or to enjoy with my own eyes. I wish there could be a way to become a successful and recognized sports photographer in a few months so I could get sent to competitions for work 

[axelsandwich]

omg my people 

 

My photos from ACI and Milan are here and here respectively - I shoot with a Canon 5D Mk 2 as an advanced amateur (I've shot paid weddings/fashion/portrait shoots). Biggest challenge with sports photography is...lenses. I shot all the competitions with a 24-105mm but I could see how huge of a difference a 200mm/300mm made to just the sheer range of shots people could get...and was so jealous ; u ; (whether I want to drop $$$ on buying or hiring one for an uncertain number of competitions is another thing...). I also shot video but decided to go with manual focus rather than try and figure out my autotracking. I didn't really want to spend my whole time looking at Yuzu and other skaters through my camera screen though, which is why my videos and fancams ended up being quite scattered and short -- I'll leave HQ fancams to the professionals (I prefer photos anyway). 

 

Workflow-wise, my friends used a CF card reader for their phones to great effect - good for people trying to edit live! https://www.ebay.com.au/p/3in1-Lightning-to-SD-CF-TF-Card-Camera-Reader-Adapter-for-iPhone-X-8-iPad-Ios11/28021355125?iid=153095105526&chn=ps

 

Even moreso than CF cards (my 64GB was enough to last me a whole day shooting full RAW and some video though I had to backup and format my card every day), spare batteries are the things to invest in. I'm lucky I had one - it meant I could shoot without fear. 

 

Here's a thread of my photos ( :

 

 

[LeadenMyr]

1 hour ago, kaerb said:

omg my people 

 

My photos from ACI and Milan are here and here respectively - I shoot with a Canon 5D Mk 2 as an advanced amateur (I've shot paid weddings/fashion/portrait shoots). Biggest challenge with sports photography is...lenses. I shot all the competitions with a 24-105mm but I could see how huge of a difference a 200mm/300mm made to just the sheer range of shots people could get...and was so jealous ; u ; (whether I want to drop $$$ on buying or hiring one for an uncertain number of competitions is another thing...). I also shot video but decided to go with manual focus rather than try and figure out my autotracking. I didn't really want to spend my whole time looking at Yuzu and other skaters through my camera screen though, which is why my videos and fancams ended up being quite scattered and short -- I'll leave HQ fancams to the professionals (I prefer photos anyway). 

 

Workflow-wise, my friends used a CF card reader for their phones to great effect - good for people trying to edit live! https://www.ebay.com.au/p/3in1-Lightning-to-SD-CF-TF-Card-Camera-Reader-Adapter-for-iPhone-X-8-iPad-Ios11/28021355125?iid=153095105526&chn=ps

 

Even moreso than CF cards (my 64GB was enough to last me a whole day shooting full RAW and some video though I had to backup and format my card every day), spare batteries are the things to invest in. I'm lucky I had one - it meant I could shoot without fear. 

 

Here's a thread of my photos ( :

 

 

Ah! I follow you on twitter! I really like your pics . I didn't know you were in here!

 

And yes, I get you on the lenses...you may have a good body, but in the end as long as it's full frame with the right lens you could make any body work...and the lenses are so damn expensive . I work mainly weddings, "fashion" and product/commercial photography so definitely buying something out of the range is totally out of the question. Renting it could work, but if you're in a different country following a certain sakura fairy I guess renting is much more a pain than just renting any piece of equipment for anything work related in your own country? I hear competitions are all very stressful as it is (but FUNNNNN) and it's something else to add in to the stress mix...

 

Regarding video, totally different beast, from what I know of the 5D Mark II, it'd probably be hell trying to shoot something as fast moving as FS because of the AF points and the fact that it seems to need a lot of light for a few of the AF points to work? I'm not entirely sure of this, sadly in this regard I shoot on Nikon 750 (or rent Sonys for fancy video ), so maybe I'm just spouting nonsense, but definitely if it's hard with your current equipment and it's not something you're really into, then why miss the opportunity for lovely pics  like the ones you usually gift the FS fandom.

 

And yes, most definitely extra batteries save the day, particularly if you're going to shoot more than just one event and particularly if you're gonna be shooting beautiful videos like Maya, that I'm sure suck the battery juice like crazy...

I lost the original battery charger during a shoot and bought a Neewer one off Amazon, it included a battery and I did not know and it turned out to be a pretty good one and inexpensive! I had bought some lighting equipment and some stands and tripods, but nothing for the camera itself...pleasantly surprised. Sorry for the advertising, but for the penniless who tend to lose their stuff like me cheap things that work are heaven sent!

[Altie]

15 hours ago, Maya said:

 

Some cameras have the "post focus" feature, which as I understand would allow you to fix focusing issues after the fact. Might your camera have that feature, too?

 

Focus tracking is another feature that might alleviate the focusing problem. Increasing number of models have it. It can be used in conjunction with face detection, which requires pre-registration of the face of the person you'd like to focus on.

 

How do these features work for figure skating motion and still images? Please share your experiences if you've used any of them.

 

Thanks a lot for your answers.

 

Yes, I have the post-focus option on my camera... It multiplies the number of pictures, but it might be worth it, I'll try it next time :)

I have to check the focus tracking. It's not my camera's forte, I fear, but maybe I didn't use it correctly.

 

(and I'm discovering my pictures on another screen and the colors are completely off... damnit, I really need to invest in a good screen :( )

[YesWay]

On 11/11/2018 at 8:45 AM, Altie said:

- I have a good camera, but the lens I use doesn't have a big enough aperture to take good pictures from afar (Lumix GX80 and 14-140 lens / equivalent to roughly 30-300 mm lens with a reflex camera, f/5.6 with full zooming). I've become really jealous of people with pro or semi-pro materials

 

Hi, I hope you don't mind if I give a few thoughts of my own...?

 

I agree that you have a good camera. I had one myself until very recently (it was lost/stolen at this year's Finlandia Trophy :-/ ). It's very unobtrusive when sitting among the crowd at skating competitions (small, and most importantly - it has a very quiet shutter). I've used one at many figure skating competitions myself.

 

I don't think anything more "pro" than the GX80 is necessary, for photos that are shared on the web, viewed at screen sizes etc. Big-sensor cameras will give better dynamic range and colour, but little else with respect to figure skating IMO. Once reduced to "web" sizes, their other advantages are mostly lost.

 

Modern micro-four-thirds cameras like your GX80 also have autofocus performance that's easily good enough to keep up with figure skaters. They have more depth of field too, so focus is a little less critical anyway, than full-frame cameras.

 

Since losing my GX80, I now only have its sibling for figure skating - the Panasonic Lumix G80 (eg. my photos of Yuzuru at Helsinki GP). It's very much like the GX80 - it's just a little bigger, even quieter shutter (Electronic First Curtain is available), and a bigger/better viewfinder.

 

It seems you've already realised this for yourself - but I think the one thing that would make a huge difference to the number of "keepers" you get... your image quality... and how deeply you can crop into a photo and still have plenty of sharpness and detail... is a better lens. Specifically, I would suggest the Olympus 40-150mm f2.8 Pro.

 

The 14-140 is a versatile and well-respected lens, but for indoor sports its "slow" apertures forces you to use either very high ISO (noisy/grainy/underexposed images), or slow shutter speeds (lots of unwanted motion-blur)

 

I use the 40-150 f2.8 myself. It's a pricey lens but it's worth every penny IMO. If you can't afford even a used one, or you don't go to enough competitions to justify it - then perhaps check if you can rent one for a weekend, at a reasonable price?

 

It's superbly sharp, and almost a perfect zoom range for figure skating if you're in the first few rows, even on the short sides. But even further back is still OK - I sat at the back (row 21) of the main arena at Helsinki Worlds, near the corner during the competitions - quite far from the rink, but cropping into the photos still gave results good enough for me (to share on the web, and view at screen sizes). I was also in row 16 at Helsinki GP, and I was happy with the results.

 

The lens is big and heavy by m43 standards, but still quite small compared to full-frame-camera equivalents. It's not big enough to be intrusive to your neighbours in the audience. It's also fixed-size (internal zoom mechanism) so it doesn't "trombone" in and out as you zoom.

 

Maximum aperture of that lens is always f2.8, no matter how much you zoom. And that lets me shoot at

- 1/800th shutter speed, which is fast enough to "freeze" most motion, and be fairly "forgiving" if my panning is not quite in synch with the skater's motion.

- ISO's of about 800-1600, low enough that "noise" is not a big issue.

 

In less well-lit arenas I can use higher ISO and still not have much problem, by using specialist noise-reduction software. And in very poor lighting I can also drop to a slower shutter speed, say 1/640th or 1/500th - and still get a good "keeper" rate. I don't think I've ever needed to drop to less than 1/500th shutter speed with that lens, at any competition.

 

Well, this is already a too-long post - but if you (or anyone else) are interested, I'd be happy to share the settings I use, techniques etc. Just ask.

[Maya]

54 minutes ago, YesWay said:

 

Hi, I hope you don't mind if I give a few thoughts of my own...?

 

I agree that you have a good camera. I had one myself until very recently (it was lost/stolen at this year's Finlandia Trophy :-/ ). It's very unobtrusive when sitting among the crowd at skating competitions (small, and most importantly - it has a very quiet shutter). I've used one at many figure skating competitions myself.

 

I don't think anything more "pro" than the GX80 is necessary, for photos that are shared on the web, viewed at screen sizes etc. Big-sensor cameras will give better dynamic range and colour, but little else with respect to figure skating IMO. Once reduced to "web" sizes, their other advantages are mostly lost.

 

Modern micro-four-thirds cameras like your GX80 also have autofocus performance that's easily good enough to keep up with figure skaters. They have more depth of field too, so focus is a little less critical anyway, than full-frame cameras.

 

Since losing my GX80, I now only have its sibling for figure skating - the Panasonic Lumix G80 (eg. my photos of Yuzuru at Helsinki GP). It's very much like the GX80 - it's just a little bigger, even quieter shutter (Electronic First Curtain is available), and a bigger/better viewfinder.

 

It seems you've already realised this for yourself - but I think the one thing that would make a huge difference to the number of "keepers" you get... your image quality... and how deeply you can crop into a photo and still have plenty of sharpness and detail... is a better lens. Specifically, I would suggest the Olympus 40-150mm f2.8 Pro.

 

The 14-140 is a versatile and well-respected lens, but for indoor sports its "slow" apertures forces you to use either very high ISO (noisy/grainy/underexposed images), or slow shutter speeds (lots of unwanted motion-blur)

 

I use the 40-150 f2.8 myself. It's a pricey lens but it's worth every penny IMO. If you can't afford even a used one, or you don't go to enough competitions to justify it - then perhaps check if you can rent one for a weekend, at a reasonable price?

 

It's superbly sharp, and almost a perfect zoom range for figure skating if you're in the first few rows, even on the short sides. But even further back is still OK - I sat at the back (row 21) of the main arena at Helsinki Worlds, near the corner during the competitions - quite far from the rink, but cropping into the photos still gave results good enough for me (to share on the web, and view at screen sizes). I was also in row 16 at Helsinki GP, and I was happy with the results.

 

The lens is big and heavy by m43 standards, but still quite small compared to full-frame-camera equivalents. It's not big enough to be intrusive to your neighbours in the audience. It's also fixed-size (internal zoom mechanism) so it doesn't "trombone" in and out as you zoom.

 

Maximum aperture of that lens is always f2.8, no matter how much you zoom. And that lets me shoot at

- 1/800th shutter speed, which is fast enough to "freeze" most motion, and be fairly "forgiving" if my panning is not quite in synch with the skater's motion.

- ISO's of about 800-1600, low enough that "noise" is not a big issue.

 

In less well-lit arenas I can use higher ISO and still not have much problem, by using specialist noise-reduction software. And in very poor lighting I can also drop to a slower shutter speed, say 1/640th or 1/500th - and still get a good "keeper" rate. I don't think I've ever needed to drop to less than 1/500th shutter speed with that lens, at any competition.

 

Well, this is already a too-long post - but if you (or anyone else) are interested, I'd be happy to share the settings I use, techniques etc. Just ask.

 

Thank you very much for sharing your thoughts! I like the photos on your website and the page on cameras, including the etiquette of choosing and using them. Would you mind sharing the mode(s) and settings you use with Panasonic FZ1000 for both competitions and exhibitions? Mine is FZ300. I presume they are similar enough.

[Altie]

Omg YesWay I LOVE your photos, and it means a lot that you took the time to write these advices.

And yes, I'm deeply aware that my lens is not good enough for the quality I dream of for figure skating photos... The aperture is just not big enough. As I was saying, I'm a beginner in sport photography, so all the advices here really mean a lot. I love my camera, and knowing that you used to have the same is really good to know,  but I've been pretty disappointed so far by this lens tbh - I' guess I'm too used to high apertures/fixed focal length lenses and the crispy pictures you can get with them (and small field depth is a must).

 

I'm going to keep your lens reference preciously. Olympus 40-150mm f2.8 Pro. Duly noted. Wow, I'm going to have to save some money for it, but it seems to be worth it... Let's just hope Yuzu will still be competing next season, for the GPF in France for instance

[YesWay]

3 hours ago, Maya said:

 

Thank you very much for sharing your thoughts! I like the photos on your website and the page on cameras, including the etiquette of choosing and using them. Would you mind sharing the mode(s) and settings you use with Panasonic FZ1000 for both competitions and exhibitions? Mine is FZ300. I presume they are similar enough.

 

Yes, FZ300 should be very similar to FZ1000. Actually, very similar settings on my micro-four-thirds cameras too.

 

Bear in mind that what works for me, isn't necessarily going to work for everybody! But at the very least it might give you some ideas.

 

Personally I shoot JPG-only. Can't be bothered with RAW at the best of times, but in any case - lighting at figure skating competitions is usually quite constant, so it's comparatively easy to get your settings and white balance right from the start, and do without the "safety net" of RAW. With modern Panasonics and a decently fast SD card, you're also unlikely to ever fill the buffer or wait for card writes, when using JPG-only. It keeps "shot-to-shot" and "burst-to-burst" speeds high, so you need never miss a shot on account of the camera.

 

On the older Panasonic superzooms, I favoured AFF autofocus mode, but newer ones I think the AFC is probably better. Either way, any difference in performance seems very small or maybe even imaginary ^_^  I don't use any kind of "tracking" AF.

 

I use a single focus area, set quite large, and positioned so it fills a large part of the bottom half of the frame. My theory is, the camera will have an easier time locking onto skaters, if all it "sees"' is their legs against a bland background of ice. (if the focus area is centred, there might be high-contrast adverts on the boards, spectators in the background etc, that could "distract" the autofocus). It seems to work well for me - but beware of tv cameras, judges etc grabbing focus if they "pass by" at the bottom of the frame...

 

I normally use Shutter Priority ("S") mode. I think with the FZ1000 I typically used 1/400th - 1/500th shutter speed, depending on how good the lighting was. Auto ISO. Under indoor lighting, this will cause the lens aperture to be effectively locked wide open, and only the ISO will vary. If a few test shots show the camera using ISO higher than about 1600, I'd look at bumping down the shutter speed. Slower shutter speeds mean less "keepers", but with practice it needn't be too bad.

 

(I do not fear this personally - but I've had a lot of practice, and I am also am used to airshow photography, where we use long lenses but slow shutter speeds, to get blurred propellers - because frozen propellers look like a dead plane about to crash!  This necessitates learning a steady hand, and good panning technique to synchronise with the subject's motion. I also grew up in the era when everything was manual, nothing on a camera was prefixed by "auto", "i" or "e", and there was no such thing as "image stabilisation" ^_^ )

 

And speaking of image stabilisation - I normally turn it off completely for the skating (turn it on for K&C, rinkside shots etc though). IMO, I get the sharpest results that way, and I have some theories as to why that might be - but this not really the time for that. It's not for the faint-hearted though, and most people will be far better off keeping I.S. turned on. Perhaps a good halfway-house compromise is to use "panning mode" stabilisation?

 

I'm OK switching off I.S. because - like I said - I grew up and honed my technique without it. And also, the old "rule of thumb" says that if shutter speed is at least 1/FocalLength, then it should be unnecessary. eg. if I am at the FZ1000's maximum equivalent focal length, 400mm, then if I use at least 1/400th shutter speed, I shouldn't need I.S. That's a bit tricky for the FZ300 though, you'd need to be shooting at 1/600th according to that rule of thumb. (Airshow photographers laugh at that rule though, we often shoot at anything up to 1000mm, and 1/250th shutter speed, hand-held).

 

I tend to hold the camera with my elbows tucked in against my belly. With the viewfinder pressed to my forehead, this creates a kind of tripod that helps keep the camera steady. When panning with the skaters, I sit back in my seat, straight, and turn with my whole torso, keeping camera/head/arms locked together as a unit. Again, this helps with stability and smooth panning - but also means I keep out of my neighbours way, and don't block their view.

 

I always shoot "landscape", I never rotate the camera to "portrait". I simply crop my photos instead, when needed. Partly because I don't want to stick my elbow in my neighbours face to rotate the camera, but also because even "modest" 16-megapixel cameras have way more pixels than I actually need. So, I don't care how many I am throwing away by cropping. My photos still have to be reduced afterwards to screen sizes, or for sharing on the web. And I almost never print bigger than A5 either...

 

If shooting JPG-only, be sure to set your white balance - Take a few test shots and check your colours look OK. Tweak until they look right. Personally I use a "digital grey card" to set a custom white balance - I get as close to the rink as I can, and place the card so it catches the rink lighting. Do this once when I arrive at the rink, save it, and then I'm set for the whole competition. Beware of lighting changes though (eg. Occasionally they don't turn on all the lights during practice sessions). Gala's are different of course, I just set white balance to "sunny" and it usually captures the coloured lighting OK.

 

Also beware of "custom setups" (one of the "C" modes on the mode dial) on modern Panasonics, there are several "gotchas": If you set a custom white balance, it will be NOT be used when you switch to a "C" mode , unless you re-save your custom setup WHILE the custom white balance is active. ie. switch the mode dial to your "C" mode to load it "clean", then set custom white balance, making sure you also select or "set" the new custom white balance, then re-save the "C" mode.

 

Although colours should be correct when you set WB from a gray card, Panasonics may still tend to be a bit "blue". Lots of people tweak their WB (custom or otherwise) a click or two towards "amber" to compensate. (I don't bother myself).

 

I use centre-weighted metering.

 

I normally use at least +0.66 (+2/3) or more exposure compensation, to avoid "too-dark" skaters and featureless block-black trousers, against "well-exposed" ice. Ice will tend to be get "blown out" by this, but I consider that preferable to under-exposed skaters. For lighter/coloured costumes I will use less +compensation. For all-dark costumes I use more. Gala's I typically use zero.

 

I also use the shadow/highlight control to boost the shadows +2 or +3

 

"Photo style" is set to "standard" but within that, I set Sharpness and NR to minimum, or nearly minimum (because I prefer to use specialist software to control final sharpness and noise reduction). I set Saturation +1 and Contrast 0.

 

Anything beginning with "i" in the setup menus is normally turned off.

 

I always have the rear screen closed, so it doesn't distract my neighbours in the crowd - but also to save battery. The viewfinder only turns on when I bring it to my eye, so when I lower the camera no battery is wasted on a screen or viewfinder that isn't being used.

 

I tend to keep the camera close to my eye during a performance though - I mostly watch by peeping over the top of the camera, so it takes only tiny movement to be ready to shoot when needed.

 

What else can I tell you? If I missed anything or you have questions, just ask, I'll try to answer as best I can...

[YesWay]

5 hours ago, Altie said:

Omg YesWay I LOVE your photos, and it means a lot that you took the time to write these advices.

 

Thanks for your kind words! I am glad if you like my photos!