[2025.02.14] A special talk between Yuima Nakazato and Mika Ninagawa - with mention of Yuzuru Hanyu

[yuzurujenn]

*machine translation, inaccuracies exist*

 

 

2025.02.14

 

Source: https://numero.jp/interview461/

Archived: https://web.archive.org/web/20250214134526/https://numero.jp/interview461/

 

 

A special talk between Yuima Nakazato and Mika Ninagawa! A promotion that explores the beauty of the art of couture that is sweeping Roppongi

 

Yuima Nakazato is the only Japanese designer who continues to present collections as an official guest designer at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week. In 2024, as he marks the 15th anniversary of his brand’s establishment, this moment presents a perfect opportunity for him to take a leap into a new chapter. To commemorate this milestone, a rare exhibition is being held, offering a close-up look at his creative works.

The lineup includes couture pieces that were just unveiled in Paris at the end of January, as well as cutting-edge creations made using advanced upcycled materials developed in partnership with Seiko Epson. These remarkable pieces offer a glimpse into the future of fashion.

 

At the entrance of the exhibition, visitors are greeted by a stunning display featuring a piece from YUIMA NAKAZATO worn by figure skater Yuzuru Hanyu in his photobook, alongside a breathtaking screen of photographs by Mika Ninagawa. In fact, Nakazato and Ninagawa have been friends since Nakazato first began his career as a designer. Our magazine's editor-in-chief, Kyoko Tanaka, acted as moderator, and the two, who continue to engage in expressive activities that stir the sensibilities of viewers, talked about their thoughts on each other's creations.

 

Spoiler

Fashion and Photography: The Beliefs of Two Artists Who Master the Art of “Nonverbal” Expression

 

Kyoko Tanaka (Tanaka): "You two have known each other for some time. How did you first meet? Also, how did your collaboration come about for the photograph of Yuzuru Hanyu displayed at the entrance of the exhibition?"

 

Yuima Nakazato (Nakazato): "I first met Mika-san in my early twenties. It was when I had just started working as a designer—really at the very beginning of my career. I remember visiting her home through a mutual acquaintance."

 

Mika Ninagawa (Ninagawa): "Yes, yes! Someone introduced you to me, saying, ‘There’s this interesting young guy I’d love for you to meet.’ My first impression was that you were creating truly beautiful work, yet you weren’t someone who aggressively put yourself out there or asserted your presence. I remember thinking, ‘So this is what the new generation is like.’ Every time I visited your seasonal exhibitions, they always felt like stepping into an art museum. Through your clothing, I found myself discovering new ways of seeing the world again and again."

 

Nakazato: "I’m truly grateful to hear you say that."

 

Ninagawa: "I had already seen the piece that Yuzuru Hanyu wore in the photoshoot at your exhibition. When I was given the opportunity to photograph him again after a long time, I immediately thought, ‘That outfit would suit him perfectly!’ And when he actually put it on, it was even more stunning than I had imagined—it felt like it captured not just the Yuzuru Hanyu that everyone knows, but something beyond that. He has an incredible ability to absorb and express the world and story behind the clothing he wears. In that sense, your designs, Yuima, are rich with narratives, making it an absolutely perfect match."

 

Nakazato: "Actually, after that photoshoot, I had a job in the U.S. designing ballet costumes. While I was there, I happened to visit the Hokusai exhibition at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, and to my surprise, I saw that photograph on display!"

 

Ninagawa: "Yes! The curator reached out to me, saying, ‘This photo evokes Hokusai’s The Great Wave off Kanagawa, and we’d love to exhibit it.’ So I provided the photograph for the exhibition. I wasn’t able to visit in person, so I had no idea that you had seen it there!"

 

Tanaka : How do you decide on collaborations between creators and the adoption of the latest technology?

 

Nakazato : "In my case, I first have an image of what I want to create, and then I look for technology that will fit that image. I think my method of selection is quite intuitive."

 

Ninagawa : It certainly seems like Yuima-kun doesn't rely on technology and wave it around, but rather incorporates it effortlessly in order to communicate what he wants to say. Are you originally knowledgeable about the latest materials and technology?

 

Nakazato : "Not exactly. I just recall information I've heard from friends and acquaintances in casual conversation when necessary. In that sense, I think I'm also being helped by connections within the community. I think that the way you present your exhibits is evolving every year, but do you naturally incorporate that into your work?"

 

Ninagawa : "A few years ago I formed a creative team called EiM, and we began to produce large-scale installation works. In our discussions, if a better idea or a method that I'm not familiar with comes up, I'm more than happy to incorporate it. I'm always keen to try new things, and if there's something I can rely on, I'm the type of person who wants to rely on them wholeheartedly (laughs). If I feel that 'this person's sense is trustworthy,' then I'll boldly leave it to them. Of course, as a basic premise, I make sure to clearly indicate the concept and the direction they should take."

 

Nakazato : "I definitely think that taking that kind of stance makes it easier to create good synergy."

 

 

It's important to balance teamwork and individual work

 

Tanaka : For the couture collection that was just announced the other day, Nakazato took the photographs himself during a trip to the Sahara Desert. Ninagawa has also expanded the scope of his work from photography to film direction, and in recent years to large-scale installations. What are your thoughts on going beyond your own field of expertise?

 

Ninagawa: "Yui-kun took this photo!? Amazing!"

 

Nakazato : "That's right, thank you. I think that clothes are a non-verbal medium, a form of communication. I often think that people are wearing clothes that tell a story, more than just to keep out the heat or cold. The clothes and photographs on display this time are similar in the sense that they are both forms of non-verbal expression. There are many different ways to interpret them, but I would be happy if people could sense or reaffirm even a little of the stories and messages contained within them. Fashion shows are basically created by a large number of people, so while it is fun, there are also times when I feel frustrated that I cannot do anything about the details on my own. On the other hand, activities such as photography and pottery can be completed by oneself. I feel that by going back and forth between the two, I can find a balance within myself."

 

Ninagawa : "I understand that very well. For me, self-portraits and the resin sculptures that I've recently become obsessed with are perfect examples of this. I work on them alone, bit by bit, late at night or early in the morning (laughs). In my regular work, there are many things that can only be done with a large group of people, but there are also times when I have to give up on things like convincing explanations for those around me and social significance. Something that I can do alone is purer and more primitive, and I can work on it solely with the motivation that wells up within me."

 

Nakazato : "That's true for you too, Mika. I saw the resin sculptures on display at the Kyocera Museum of Art, and I felt a strange power emanating from that room (laughs). The other exhibits were also incredibly spectacular, but there was something about that section that I personally felt an emotional connection with."

 

 

It starts with confronting what you really want to express.

 

Tanaka : Nakazato-san, you are also working on a project to support young fashion designers. I think Ninagawa-san is also in a position to guide young people through numerous exhibitions and planning sessions around the world. Is there anything you would like to say to those who are about to become creative, and to those who will visit this exhibition with that kind of enthusiasm?

 

Nakazato : "I rarely preach to the younger generation, but I often ask if the person is truly interested in expressing themselves in that way. Nowadays, social media is so widespread that it's easy for ideas to become generalized, and it's easy to make adjustments, thinking, 'I'll do it this way because it seems like it will be well-received.' But actually, I think the best thing to do is to find something that you can engross yourself in for hours on end. It's dangerous and a waste to be influenced by external evaluations, thinking, 'No one will appreciate it' or 'It won't be profitable.' Even if people don't notice the appeal of your work with 10 or 20 copies, if you make thousands of copies, it could become something amazing."

 

Ninagawa : "Persistence is power, isn't it? Now that we live in an age where anyone with a smartphone can take photographs or videos, I think people are focusing more on what a person is thinking and living. Rather than some sensible philosophy like, 'Let's just incorporate sustainability into our lives somehow,' I think you can't even get off the starting line unless you hone in on what you truly want to express. On the other hand, if you have that, it's an environment that makes it easy to output in various ways. Of course, it's not necessary to have something philosophical from the start; things will become clear as you go along, but I think it's good to be conscious of trying to grasp that properly."

 

Nakazato : "You're right. The difference between people who have that kind of feeling and those who don't is quite clear. No matter how much you try to cover it up on the outside, it's immediately obvious, so it's tough."

 

Ninagawa : "I've had the opportunity to photograph the clothes that Yuima makes a few times, and each time I really feel the breath coming through to his work. They have the form of clothing, but there are all kinds of thoughts behind them. That's why I want many people who aren't usually interested in clothes to come to this exhibition, and I would like to visit many times myself. But looking at them like this... it makes you want to buy them, doesn't it? You can't buy these, right?"

 

Nakazato: "Actually... you can buy them! This time, we're also making it possible to make special orders. We've also got sneakers made from crushed clothes we brought back from Africa."

 

Ninagawa : "That's right! I asked a good question (laughs). When you see the real thing and feel its power, you end up wanting to wear it. I hope everyone will enjoy that too!"

 

 

 

"YUIMA NAKAZATO Exhibition - Does the story of the universe and giant catfish told by the desert reside in clothing?-"
Period: February 3rd (Mon) to 16th (Sun), 2025
Venue: Tokyo City View (Roppongi Hills Mori Tower, 52nd floor)
Address: Roppongi Hills Mori Tower, 6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo
TEL: 03-6406-6652 (Tokyo City View, Mori Arts Center Gallery)
URL: www.yuimanakazato.com/exhib_2025.html

Photos: Yu Inohara Hair & Makeup (Mika Ninagawa): Noboru Tomizawa (CUBE) Text: Misaki Yamashita Moderator: Ako Tanaka Edit: Yukiko Shinto